It’s late summer in Johannesburg. Every afternoon we are treated to monstrous thunderstorms where the span between lightening and thunder is negligible and the buildings thrust with each enormous boom. These brief episodes bring about the green lushness that the city enjoys during the dry hours. I swear this must be the season of the lovers—I see them in every verdant, open space, leaning together enjoying a late summer evening. There is warmth in every direction.
I’ve been here two weeks, but it seems more like a month or more already, given how jammed-packed my days have been with new experiences and sights. It’s a country where days start early—it’s expected that you’ll be at work around 8 am, and friends don’t hesitate to call you at that hour even on the weekends—so you have to be up and ready with the sun. Ibises, which (to me) resemble dodos, and are effectively the pigeons of South Africa, will arouse any late sleepers with their screaming “caaaaaawwww!”
One of the things that is new this time around is the intense local interest I've noticed in the U.S. election. Every time someone--from taxi drivers to waiters--hears my accent, I get, "Oh, you're American! Tell me about the election!" I swear, most average folks here are following the results closer than I am. I think the source of this is two-fold: sincere pleasure at the fact that George Bush is leaving office and definitely an incredible excitement about Obama. I see what bridges he could build internationally--just by being himself--if he makes it to the office. It's gratifying to know that, at least in this part of the world, we're nearly forgiven for the past eight years with no lingering hard feelings.
Back to the personal, my housing situation has been inadequate—I’ve been staying on the campus of the University of the Witwatersrand—and while this has been an interesting ethnographic observation of South African undergraduate life, I’m ready to settle into an apartment with my old self. On Sunday, I’ll finally get to unpack my bags at my new flat. My living space is so important to me—even when I travel—that I’m already fantasizing about hanging up my clothes and stacking books on the shelf.
But before then, I’m off to sweet old Durban this weekend, where it will be 90+ degrees, for a visit with two families that are very dear to me. And on Monday (no time in my new place!) I’m off to Mafikeng, North West Province, which is only about 15 miles from the Botswana border, to work up there for a week. Photos and more updates, including an explanation of what I’m doing here, will follow. For now, here are a few snapshots from around town:
Clouds before an afternoon storm:
This was news to me, but apparently there are Mormons here. The soccer I was already aware of (that's an understatement):
An evening view of Hillbrow, the seedy downtown district where I work, with the landmark Telkom tower:
The view out my office window, taken this very morning. A new parking lot is being built entirely out of brick:
This was news to me, but apparently there are Mormons here. The soccer I was already aware of (that's an understatement):
An evening view of Hillbrow, the seedy downtown district where I work, with the landmark Telkom tower:
The view out my office window, taken this very morning. A new parking lot is being built entirely out of brick:
1 Comments:
I was confused about the Mormons playing soccer, but now I understand.
Glad to hear you are escaping the undergrads. We're having spring thunderstorms here. Have fun in Durban!
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